The next step - application for BA (Hons) Illustration

Moments of clarity don’t happen that often - moments where a simple and lucid thought is caught in a shaft of light. But occasionally, very occasionally there is a direction I follow because it is truly mine to take, my baton to carry, my talent to sow.

This intuitive sense of direction arrived in force, one non-descript day around 15 years ago. I remember it vividly. I became filled with the anticipation that I would ‘paint’. I was consumed with expectation and glee. I feel it now. It was a vital ingredient that had never really occurred in the original mix when I’d embarked on the Foundation year at Carmarthen Art College and the HND Graphic Design at Colchester Institute over 20 years ago, nor the following 10 years of freelancing and working in several design studios. I preferred the black and white line, both typographical and illustrative.

Several years passed before I saw any tangible evidence of this new ingredient. I still have my first couple of small watercolour paintings, (learning all the while from artists like John Blockley and more recently, Alvaro Castagnet.) As a book superceedes a film, so these watercolours are emotive and create room for the imagination. The first few in particular offer vivid detail of old farmhouses and immediate surroundings, against an ambiguous background of foliage and the suggestion of a misty mountain, evoking a sense of mystery that draws me back to the cold dank evenings of my own welsh childhood. And all at the same time, releasing a burst of energy and excitement that propels me into another dimension. (A painting that I am not happy with has an equal and opposite effect of pulling me into the murky chambers of self-doubt and despair!)

Ten years ago, we emigrated to Hong Kong. Using a variety of styles, I created greeting cards prolifically and from there moved to commissions, exhibited, sold watercolour paintings and ran workshops. But the teaching I really began to enjoy was the 4 to 12 year olds. Employed by a Russian artist, meant that I learnt to teach using a structured approach. I saw first-hand the value of teaching art. The value of a 4 or 5 year old learning to concentrate, totally absorbed by their painting – and saw in a competitive world, how important it was to give a child a set of skills that they could utilize, a tool which built into their self-esteem. I believe that an element of creativity is innate in every person and I saw how a younger child was particularly liberated and vibrant in his or her work. However, in the professional world of teaching I begun to feel hampered at not having the qualifications to pursue a career, which seemed to so easily befit me.

Returning overland from Cape Town to UK, we invited Channel 4 to document our year. In Africa, the film crew came out every 6/7 weeks, while I filmed the rest of the time. The challenge and creative learning curve of filming was different to anything I had worked on before and the subsequent showing of my work on Channel 4 was an exhilarating experience! In October 2010 we finally arrived in UK once more. This signaled the time to pursue my FE plans. I continue to paint and teach. After Easter I will be at a local primary school in Hereford where I will take Y3 art classes for 4 weeks – their theme, appropriately, is Africa.

The creative process is fundamentally one of building and dismantling. Having put together a case, which will help me focus as I engage in further study, I now need to explore a variety of different approaches and to accept new ideas and suggestions. I am eager to absorb new disciplines of how to translate the spoken or written word into a visual picture.

Tips for the Inspired Traveller!

We travelled through Africa, Middle East and Europe from bottom to top, 40,000 km, 20 countries, 3 continents in 12 months from September 2009 to 2010 including six weeks preperation in Cape Town. We think 12 months was a good amount of time, not too long, nor too short. Looking back, most of our preconceived notions about Africa were not as we envisaged or that as portrayed by the media, including the Channel 4 version of our trip.

Weather and Roads: During our time in Africa, for all my misgivings we had good weather only having to endure rain a couple of times. We were held up for some time in Nairobi and traveller tales abounded of mud baths which I wasn't sad to miss. The roads in general were much better than we expected, particuarly Ethiopia. Western Tanzania was a new gravel road. We were apprehensive about it, but the weather was good and we had no trouble. Chinese construction was evident everywhere. 

Currency: US dollar was the only reliable currency in Africa. We tried many times, but could not cash our traveller cheques. Also our cards never worked at ATMs.  We could use them at supermarkets. (No cash-back!) Petrol stations never took them. (However, we didn't meet anyone else who had this problem, and never managed to sort it out despite numerous long distant calls.) Sudan did not take VISA in any form from anyone at the time we were there. Overall, I was extremely relieved we had taken as many US dollars as we had. We had a small safe bolted to the landcruiser and also one or two other places. We spent around 1,000 to 2,000 pounds/mth. Sub-Saharan Africa was more expensive than Sudan and Middle East.

Health: We kept excellent health the whole way through. The two younger kids both had heat-stroke once early on in the trip. Eden was sick one other time for one evening. We didn't have colds or flu. We had no issues with food poisoning. We avoided the lakes where bilharzia may be, or took quick dips. We took malaria tablets but was careful to cover up, sleep under nets etc. Next time, I would reconsider our approach to the prophylatics. However, we found skin wounds became quickly infected. We used the anti-biotic flucloxacillin - and I'd recommend taking some.

Travel Guides: Whilst guide books provide a lot of useful information, it's other overland travellers that provide the best up-to-date information on security, border crossings, accommodation and things to do and see. The families we found included a french family who travelled up through S Sudan; another family (www.5dm.fr) who we spent 10 days travelling with after our car roll; and a third family who travelled in 5 continents using public transport, walking, at the time we met them they had a hatch back which they later discarded in Nairobi and we bumped into them again hitch hiking in rural southern ethiopia. And we met so many great people - Colin (confined to a wheelchair) and Chrissie who were driving back to Australia through China; Jungle Junction crowd; Tanzanian missionary families with their great teenage kids; MaryBeth, Turkish families, police checks who gave us coffee ... However, our travel bible was Africa Overland by Bradt which we followed closely, particuarly as we prepared for the trip. When on the road, we used the in-depth Lonely Planet guides, and one or two Bradt guides. Both good. But there is a real danger of following the letter and missing out on your own discoveries. Michelin covers the continent in three large maps. We also had one for Europe. These large overview maps were excellent. We also used Garmin Maps for GPS which we found excellent.

Vehicle Choice: We saw both Landrovers and Landcruisers, also a trusty Hilux which was quite new and problem free. We didn't have major problems, except it took a while to work out the 24v starter motor needed both batteries, and we couldn't sneak any charge off the 2nd battery. However, we met many people who had problems resulting from bad workmanship. We're biased - and like our Toyota Landcruiser. It certainly has comfort value. Diesel was significantly cheaper than petrol, though both were widely available. We had a 140ltr long-range fuel tank which we couldn't have done without. Tyres - just go for the best quality you can get, and a spare per two tyres. We used Goodrich all-terrain. Because we had a SA car, the carnet was significantly cheaper. We got it from the AA in Somerset West, Cape Town. Yellow Card insurance is best in Africa and you can get it at the borders or local town. We got Green Card insurance on the Greek/Turkish border, but wish we had got longer there as it wasn't easy to get after that.

Kitchen: We used two 5kg CADAC bottles from SA which were sometimes challenging to re-fill. They lasted over a month each but I would suggest buying adaptors from a specialised gas dealer. I would recommend a freezer over a fridge. It's also was handy to store ready-made meals in.

Drinking Water: We had expected it to be difficult to find good drinking water, but in the event we rarely bought bottled water. We had two tanks holding a total of 120 litres under the trailer, and also carried two 20 ltrs jerry cans. We made a point of filling up from underground springs when available. This was never a problem. We also filtered some of the African water, but I'm not sure we needed to.  Even though we carried water purification tablets we never found it necessary to use them. Food was never a problem either.

Border Crossings: All border crossings were fine and took no more than 90minutes except for Syria/Turkey which took about 6 hrs.Better to chose quiet border crossings, just check with people coming the other way. The border officials were always polite and friendly. To our surprise, we were never harassed for bribes by police or any other authority except once in Uganda. That time, we stood our ground. It was an unfair call - and managed not to pay. Almost without exception, we found police checks, border crossings and any other brush with officialdom to be courteous and often curious, just liking to talk. One policeman asked us to pass on his regards to Gordon Brown! On the otherhand, on advice, we decided to avoid Egypt, just taking a ferry from Port Sudan to Saudia Arabia.

Visas: We needed a visa in most countries. The visa for Ethiopia at the time, was difficult to get. The rules changed the very week we arrived and it caused us a lot of extra time and stress. Our previously arranged visa had run out. Most people sent their passports back to their home country when in Nairobi which seemed to work ok. As it turned out, we got all our visas en route, except for Sudan which we got in Uganda. The timing can be problematic and for this reason maybe get visas en route.


Tents: We used an Eezi-Awn rooftop tent which sat on the landcruiser and a trailer tent for our 3 kids. Both tents took less than 2 minutes to put up and 4min to put away. The trailer tent afforded us more space, although we met a family of 5 who travelled the length of Africa and back up America in one landrover and two tents on the top. However, we appreciated the extra living area and don't regret that decison. We loved the tents.

Email and the Internet: Internet through most of Africa - but for me, with kids waiting - only the campsites which included internet access were much help. But we kept a phone through most of Africa which was inexpensive compared to Europe and good receptions. We also used laptops and wrote a lot of emails off-line, but you need to be aware that dust and rough roads take their toll - and then there are security issues.


Final note on safety. I felt safe and I felt the kids were safe. I guess a healthy dose of common sense helped. One of our favourite countries was Sudan where the people were courteous and generous. It just didn't live up to media image.
Now we need to plan our next venture!

Back 'Home'

On the 8th of September, just over one year later we arrived back on 'solid ground'. Staying with my brother's wonderful family with all their love and care. The Middle East and Europe were significantly easier than Africa. We were sad to finish such an amazing year. The kids on the other hand are basically relieved and delighted to be here!

I've included a fb quote from MaryBeth and the after-school centre where we spent three weeks in Namibia. Thank you everyone for all the stationary, books, rugby boots, first aid kits and toys that were collected. Unfortunately the boxes sponsored by ReLocasia, our shipping company arrived too late to get filmed. However we know everything will be used, re-used, recycled and then passed on to someone else ... so thank you for all your generosity.

MaryBeth Gallagher September 10 at 5:43pm

so glad you are home safely! now you can pack up and come back to visit us again! make NAMIBIA your home!!! :) we are still making good use of all the goodies you shipped to namibia in those 12 boxes!! thanks for your love and generosity!! xoxoxoxoxo mb :)

One year later!

We're now in Montenegro - found the little border closed into Bosnia so not sure now if we'll go to Sariyevo. Probably just go through Croatia, Slovinia and to a house in Austria of some people who offered it for a few days. They are away!! Oh my goodness - have we met some lovely people on our trip. It's been a highlihgt in it's own right.

Albanian people were lovely. The country struck me as grey, somehow accentuated by the pea-green and bright orange houses splattered here and there. Apparently so painted as a conscious remark of their former communist days. And also the lack of historical buildings not quite, but almost anywhere to be seen. Montenegro however is obviously an up-and-coming toursist destination. Lots of money here - and a great country with some exhilerating and even dangerous hiking. We've met many austrians, italians and other europeans. Courtesy dictates that I withhold comment at this point! Except to say that it's interesting to note that our steriotypical image of different nationalities has either been re-enforced or challenged. For the record however, when asked that inevitable first question ... we now say that we're from South Africa!!

We have been thinking a lot about Hong Kong and comparing notes with each other being that's it's just over a year and a day since we left. Thank you so much to so many lovely people and such a beautiful little corner of HK. I can't start naming names - I'll leave people out but we were privilidged to spend such a rich chunk of our lives there. I was hoping our year away would take away some of the sting of having to leave ... I don't know.

Oh - the Channel 4 viewing is on Monday 20th September at 9pm.

Water, water

Greece was a great holiday destination, but we'll save it for a rainy day ... it was too hot and had too many tourists! So we didn't hang around apart from some amazing plunge-pools on the slopes of Mt Olympus and a waterfall walk complete with 5m natural slide. It didn't even hurt ... apparently. Oh - and we found some wonderful thermally heated pools- just locally used. So we lit candles and spent one evening warming up in the cool mountain air. But finally - I painted and I liked what I did, so hopefully there'll be less of a gap before I do the next one. So ever closer to our final destination, we're now in Albania on the shores of Lake Orchid, which is quite high up - and so cooler. Croatio and Slovinia in the next week. Not a lot of internet here again.

East Meets West

With a mixture of envy and distain, I watched the gleaming chrome kettle been carried across my line of vision through the deluxe campsite and the conglomerate of whiter-than-white Italian motor homes somehow jarring against our tried and tested kit. Here we are, the evidence of kettle and campsite, symbolising our move into western life again. (Was our kettle really ever that shiny – I don't remember anything other than …. well, black.) Our cutlery struggling to hold rank and number, the stoic Eazi-Awn roof top tent refusing to be daunted by car-roll or 40,000 km travelling, Swarovsky binoculars bringing us closer to an experience of Africa and the Middle East that we'll never forget.

 

Finally, we have tanned bodies the colour of homemade marmalade – as we relaxed at a lake with a chalky clay sand and azure blue waters, alongside Portia and Eden 's DIY 'mud-bath' in the shallow waters. As we left we got stuck pulling out the trailer. The soft clay under the sand again deceiving us – but the car winch pulled out the trailer to our great satisfaction. And here I confess our delight when our family discovered not only a 'hypermarket' (ie bigger than ususal corner shop) but one that is linked with Tescos and spent several happy afternoons browsing the shelves, joy of joys!! We loved the moonscapes of Cappadocia, the fig trees and apricot trees dripping with fruit and the people with their warm hearts. Today, we popped into Istanbul, by mistake. Or rather we avoided it by mistake – the gps leading us far and beyond the city walls (to the above abode), but we had to return to investigate our Green Card insurance. What a pleasant surprise – a particularly attractive city, which epitomises a country with layer upon layer of history.

 

Our final stop in Turkey was a few days spent at the Gallipoli WWI Battlefields which was very moving and really bought some of our recent history closer to home. So glad we made the effort to get there.

 

With something like five weeks travelling, 10 hours unabridged Huckleberry Finn, Of Mice and Men and more recently Mao's Last Dancer, and family after family of warm hearts, glass after glass of sweet black tea ….. indeed Turkey has lived up to it's reputation of east meets west, and the beginning of a gentle transition into the other world.

Warm Middle East

Maybe if I work back, it'll be easier! The Middle East has been such a cacophony of sound and experience. But I'm finding it a challenge to write with both respect to the countries which have so warmly hosted us in many unexpected ways, and honesty to catch the true flavour of our time there. Yet our passing through only gives a glimpse of places which are so rich with age-old traditions and history over-flowing from every street corner. Apart from the ubiquitous mobile phone, on the surface, it seems the 20th centaury has failed to make a dent.
The other night we looked up a lake outside Tarsus and ended up staying on the land of a gentleman called Mr. Turkmen. I safely mention his name as we subsequently found out the whole village is by name of Turkmen. We based at the top overlooking a large lake on a piece of scrub ground and frequently were visited by curious on-lookers bearing gifts of bread, eggs, melon, tomatoes, parsley, cucumbers and lots of fresh figs. We tried to return some of the hospitality but I'm not sure if they liked our lentil curry! On the other hand Asher's chocolate cake made on an open fire was well received.
Cappadocia was a highlight in its own right, as it has a surreal sandstone landscape where numerous caves and underground cities carved out. We took a tour - it would have been impossible on our own - the caves are like swiss cheese, small rooms with tunnels leading in every direction leading off to a maze of other tunnels or shafts with foot-holes cut on either side where you straddle up to the next layer. Health and Safety non-existent as for lighting - and just great for our family as you can imagine. In Cappadocia at a lovely camp site, we met our first of the tourists and find them to be a strange breed, quite different from the 'travellers' we've met. I guess been labelled as a 'British tourist' doesn't help - and we'll do our best to avoid high concentrations of tourists as we get back to UK! Don't know if we'll succeed.
Ajay loved Syria and found the people warm and friendly and the historical towns all amazing. We stayed where it is one of the few places left where Aramaic is spoken. We called into an old monastery, and alongside a tour group from Iran (women had beautiful open faces) we listened to the Lord's Prayer in Aramaic, which I found moving. We spent time in the beautiful city of Damascus and the Lost City of Palmyra. As a woman, the Middle East was hard - and now, finally I've learnt to avoid eye contact with anyone passing by and so not to rise to the invitation/challenge at their eye contact. But that has been a difficult lesson. On the boat over from Sudan to Saudi Arabia I would happily have had a stand-up verbal with all 400 men on how rude their staring comes across as. Fortunately we were able to take refuge in the cool children and woman's room, with the other dozen women. In some countries, as Eden noted, woman appear to move about as floating ninjas. In Syria, the women's eyes and lips were visible, but frankly they didn't seem that happy, as compared to the Iranian woman. So I jumped alternate countries, from Sudan to Jordan to Turkey in being able to relate to Jo Public. The other countries mint I could only relate to Ajay and the kids, or specific needs, which left a strange feeling of being undermined or ignored. However, as the kids could tell you, there were times when I happily felt like scratching eyes out and felt very unstable in how I would react - a simmering volcano. Oh - forget the sun tan in these countries - arms, elbows and legs nicely packed out of sight!
Our first night gave us insight to another side of Syria. After a long border crossing we arrived in Damascus around 4pm - but seriously, there was no parking at the budget or mid-range hotels. The Sheraton price was out of the question, so we ventured outside the city and found a little used mountain side with a rough path just overlooking the city and set-up. It was late by this time, around 10pm. But just as the kids had fallen to sleep, we got visitors and found that we had happened onto military land. Oh my goodness - they wanted to know all our contacts and 'friends' in the area suspecting our kids as a cover-up for something more sinister of which I dare not write here. Who knows? So 4am we finally re-entered Damascus, found some parking - with hotel, and lay down for the remaining few hours of that night. After that experience, it seemed to us that all of Syria was used for purposes other than rural agriculture and 'normal' land use ... In fact, I have an amazing picture of a huge sign in the main suq in Damascus old town thanking a specific neighbouring country for their marters.
Asher made me a little book and in it I've been compiling lists! Lists of fruits that we've seen, places that we've stayed at all the way from Cape Town, dates and countries that we've seen etc. Quite interesting! In Turkey we've done some bush camping always seeking permission, but it depends on what is available or acceptable in a country. Some countries don't have camp sites. For various reasons bush camping doesn't always work but it's usually on transit, rarely more than a day because we get too hot and sticky.
Jordan remains the all time favourite country, as in me and Ajay. The hospitality was beyond anything I've ever experienced. Even locals that picnic in the park next to each other will share token food with each other - it's really ingrained and a rich country for it. I think I mentioned some of the great times we had, but not only Jordan. The other Middle Eastern countries have all had their wonderful generous people. Lots of family groups, lots of groups of men. Many villages have no women to be seen. In Turkey we've continued to meet lovely kind families as they've shared with us their simple but rich ways of living.
After this country we go to Greece, up the west coast through Albania, Croatia, Slovenia and Italy. I'm expecting that we'll be done on trip quite abruptly at some stage. Don't ask about the time - history will tell us clearly! If you've got this far, I know you want more pictures ... we lost a camera card. But we'll try and get some going.
Your turn to tell me your news! xx

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Middle East

Love Jordan. Hospitality second to none! I mean how many places do the police check not only your driving license but also if you need coffee, a wash-up and chat. All the more impressive as there was little to no english - so we conversed in sign-language! We were also adopted by a local Jordanian family and got to share some of their rich family orientated culture. Snorkelling in the Red Sea, floating on the Dead Sea, the heady heights of Petra (Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom!!), dining with Bedouin families, camping in cool nature reserves .... oh my goodness, I knew hardly anything of this country - I would definately recommend it as an alternative place to bring a family.
 
We reluctantly left Jordan ... and got into Syria safely, but less than 12 hours in - well, suffice to say at this stage that we are still recovering from almost a full night dealing with rather a sensitive issue, arriving at our hotel with the kids about 3.30am. Damascus is an amazing old city and is one of the longest continually inhabited cities in the world. We love old Damascus, and are spending an extra day there today looking at one of the old Damascan houses. Next we head northwards to the lost city of Palmyro (woops - is that the right spelling?) Our guide books got left behind in the lost boxes for Africa - so we rely on a pdf LP guide book. We have a great selection of books for crossing Africa if anyone's interested?!!
 
We continue home school as long as it's not too hot. All three kids have jumped a couple of years in their reading - which is great. We will do some Islamic studying today, and usually try to cover the geography or history of the countries that we're passing through. Asher has a maths rich diet! The kids are looking forwards to getting back into ordinary school routine. Nothing like absence to make the heart grow fond(er)!

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Last few days in Africa

I have never come across a more polite country than Sudan. And I thoroughly like it. As in today - while Ajay was booking a trailer tickets and validating other tickets, a stranger helped to interpret for him, and then took him for a short taxi ride to show him all possible alternatives for hotels. Then back to the office, dropped Ajay off, and got in his own car and waved goodbye. Or yesterday - we got stuck in a salt pan which has a crusty surface but sticky wet mud, as we found out too late. So the lovely father and son helped us get conch and dried vegetation. With some effort after an hour, we were free again - I don't think this was his first time, he certainly knew what he was doing. (Ajay got to use the winch finally!) But we could not get them to take money and in the end bought a generous supply of fish. We are forever being welcomed and people asking us to carry their good wishes to the rest of the world! The country is rich with hospitality. The heat is a different thing. We've just been snorkelling in the Red Sea - but we are sunned out. So, for our last day in Africa, we looked for aircon (+ hotel!) to cool down with.
 
Yes - we have plenty of traveller tales. But I'm not sure how they will translate back into UK culture. My guess is that people have limited exposure to ask the right questions, or able to identify with us.
And maybe it's the same in reverse - I'm not sure. But one of the highlights of our trip has been enjoying the company of other adults alongside our kids. So our kids relating with other adults on their own terms, and then we mix in too! And stories have been great fun in that context.
 
I think return via Saudi Arabia is a good choice, rather than Egypt. We heard so often it was impossible to go this way. We'll know tomorrow. Then we have only a 3 day transit visa - so that will make the huge country of Saudi very quick!!! 
 
Opening football world cup last night in South Africa. Tonight we watch Argentina vs Nigeria on the big screen in the hotel garden. Funny that a country as large as this has no more than a dozen towns. I wonder how many women will be there - not many, if any.

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Sudan

Well, I love Sudan. More accurately, I love the Sudanese people. They are so curteous, polite, warm hearted and generous … and straight forward. I can't imagine a nicer capital. We have been so well treated. But – it is hot. I left a bottle of water out at 6pm, and an hour later it was too hot to put my hand in. This is the first country where it's been uncomfortably hot in both the day and the night. We are staying at the Blue Nile Sailing Club which is a dust bowl next to the Nile in the centre of the city, but also draws a range of interesting characters from Khartoum's elite. We have secured our three day transit visa through Saudi Arabia, and after snorkeling in the Red Sea off Sudan coast, we'll head off in the sun set on a ferry, and will be in Jordan within a few days. Africa over! How weird.

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Ethiopian perceptions

Elections in Ethiopia were interesting. It's their fourth ever set of democratic elections, and as it turned out, the most peaceful. The current government has been in power for 20 years..... No one wanted to see the bloodshed of the official, or unofficial figures of last time. European Union election observers were everywhere, and just a little off-hand. I think they were apprehensive and wondering what we were doing there. But one great guy was telling us what a frustrating job it was: many of the candidates had ended up in hospital with younger ones in thier place who were genuinely scared. Even with clear witness and evidence of what happened the police were reluctant to get involved. And even then - the observers were only in Ethiopia for another few weeks and so it was unclear what reprecussions there would be once they left. As far as we could work out there was 100% turn out, which was verified as we asked children and teenagers if they voted - the later, definately, the former - no of course not! On the street people were either cynical or almost naive and painted the glossy media stories. Nothing inbetween. It's sparked an interest of the decocratic process off in the kids, especially with our own UK interesting election results.
Anyway - glad to see only long lines of people in all the villages we passed through and nothing more demonstrative. Ethiopia is a beautiful country which deserves to loose it's reputation from the 1985 famine - it certainly has enough wonderful landscape, rock-hewn churches and tribal groups to make a very interesting and stimulating visit.
We're now safely in Khartoum looking for a way out of Africa through Saudia Arabia. We'll find out if we need to brave Egypt or not tomorrow when we apply for our visa. We need proof of our marriage amoung other things!

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Sudan

We're well and have made it to sudan.It's not the most relaxing of trips. Our camping w/e's in HK were definately more relaxing. We've finally hit the african heat here. Although only late 30's, ten degrees lower than last week apparently. So we've taken refuge in a sweet greek hotel where they keep giving us free ice cream. But at $230 US, maybe it's built into the price somewhere!
The trip has put a lot of pressure on us all in different ways. So now we are looking at settling down in uk with some enthusiasm ... mission accomplished!!!
Africa is just the most friendly place. It doesn't have a lot of stuff - but it sure has loads of lovely people who are just waiting for you to stop by. eg another road stop where there is a sence of more than just wanting to practice his english!! 

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THE ROAD ONWARDS ..

WELL WE LEFT NAIROBI YESTERDAY, ONLY TO DISCOVER THIS MORNING THAT THE CAR HAD SUNK TOO LOW ON OUR NEW COILS, AND WE WERE BACK TO SQUARE 1. SO WE TURNED ROUND AND REPLACED THEM ... AGAIN. AND HERE WE ARE AT JUNGLE JUNCTION. THE KIDS WERE SO EXCITED TO BE IN HAPPY SUBURBAN NAIROBI, 'HOME' AS THEY CALL IT. WE'VE HAD A COMPLETE BREAK FROM AFRICA WHILE IN KENYA, AND HAVE HARDLY VENTURED BEYOND THE FRONT DOOR OF THIS OVERLANDERS' STOP. BRACING OURSELVES FOR ETHIOPIA, IN PARTICULAR THE ROAD UP. (TO SEE A U-TUBE VIDEO JUST TAKEN OF THE MAIN ROAD BETWEEN HERE AND ETHIOPIA - FOLLOW THIS LINK. AFRICA EN VESPA 2010. IT'S THE FIRST ONE, KENIA.)

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AWA...

For a change - Africa wins again, not. We got our visas, thanks to the UK Ethiopian Embassy who petitioned on our behalf. So we are off, as soon as we have our DHL package. Another story.

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Kenya: Aquiring a Visa

My goodness. We are certainly having experiences. As of 4 days prior to our application, the embassy here in Nairobi was not authorised to give Ethiopian visas anymore. Who knows what had happened. Our existing Ethiopian visas expired late March; if only we had known. After Ajay and I both hasseled the guy and confirmed the situation, the Ethopian Emb. in London got involved and petitioned Addis Ababa on our behalf. Our options are very few and we were looking at turning round, or selling the car. The other overland routes were Somalia (the UK Embassy here told us they didn't want more kidnappings), Southern Sudan in amoungst the post election killings, the DRC ....  or flying over Ethiopia with the car.

We are fortunate with the UK helping us. There are other people here who just have to make alternate plans. So that's Kenya, for us. We'll leave this coming week - hopefully. Never definate (in this country) until it's history.

We are well and happy, staying at Jungle Junction in Nairobi with a random group of 'overlanders' of every nationality, many stuck here for various reasons with visa or car issues, waiting for parts; waiting, waiting. We have excellent internet access, lots of lovely people for us and the kids to enjoy. In Kenya we've not intergrated, apart from one lovely family who hosted us overnight. The kids are so stressed when we pull up somewhere like that! But the potholes were unbelievable especially as the evening drew in early with the fast approaching black thunder clouds.

It seems that part of driving through Africa is car issues. Our brakes stopped working the other day, brake fluid came out of the broken brake friction hose. We were so fortunate that they failed on a nice stretch of road .... rather than the hairpin bends of a few days later.

Having had initial reservations about Sudan and Ethiopia - I am so looking forwards to these two countries. We may miss out Egypt on the otherhand. Our wait here in Nairobi means that we will hit Ethiopia during their elections, and the long rains. Hoping neither of those will be a problem.

I've just uploaded a few pictures on facebook!

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Flickr Account opened!

Hey - flickr account acitvated. Now I have to learn to update it.....!
R PINDORIA - Let me know if you can get into it - how. I'll put this up on the blog then.
Put it in as an RSS feeder and maybe, it'll alert you automatically when I update. Will try and get more pictures on in the next few days. I'm not sure if do it 'public' or 'private'. Any ideas?!
This is such a cool stop here at Jungle Junction in Nairobi. Lots of 'overlanders' like us - rather than backpackers. So good to glean infomation. We are meeting so many really nice switched on people, this whole trip. And of course, one or two 'interesting' characters. The kids are beginning to come to a place of actually wanting to get to UK. Reverse physicology on a big scale - this was one of the original ideas!

Asher has just downloaded a psp game that we bought, Assasin's Creed. Oh joy!!!! Anyone got any ideas for games for 13 -14 yr olds. Obviously the 12 yr old games are way too young for him. And mum and dad are not happy with the 16 yr old ones.

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Riots in Uganda

Well we were here in Uganda during the riots and in hindsight, very exciting...! Lockdown for one day and then the two weeks of 'mourning'. Jordan House was right next to Kasubi Tombs and you could so sense the tension every time we drove through. It wasn't pleasant: people shouting out slogans, early morning drunkenness, armed soldiers in the hedges and all over the place. The whole atmosphere just waiting for a spark to ignite. Also the staff at Jordan House prevented Channel 4 from filming outside of the orphanage, which was a fair call, but frustrating for them!

But we lived another day and with credit to the Ugandan Government in handling a potentially explosive situation, all has calmed down. We have since had 2 weeks enforced rest while waiting for our Sudanese visas which have just come through. Yeah!

We had an amazing day meeting our sponsored child. I have met lots of lovely sponsored children but I wasn’t prepared for the impact of meeting ‘our’ 12 yr old – and the reality that Jacob, the youngest of 5 is now able to go to school, get his education and make a go of life. He is two years behind, reflected by the fact that his mother was not able to afford to send him to local school continually. (We only took him on a couple of years ago.) I am still humbled by the stark realisation of what we’ve enabled to happen. In its own a way – a highlight of our time here.

Operation Uganda

I’ve decided not to be a film star for the time being. It really is too much work – and I can’t get my head around having two different agendas to work with, in this case the film crew, and the orphanage we were with. Sometimes in tandem, sometimes not … quite!!! Either way, demanding on us as a family. But all’s well which ends well. 

Jordan House, under the umbrella of Operation Uganda, was a stunning place which looks after around 80 kids who have no parents or extended family. They work closely with the JH community, and so have taken on twice as many ‘Community Kids’ which remain in their families or relatives, but have their education and medical needs looked after too. While we were there an Empowering Woman course was been held, where a group of local very poor women are taken through practical and business practices in making jewellery which gets sold in the west. So watch out when I come back to UK! I just loved that whole approach of Operation Uganda. It is also very hands off, working closely with the existing JH community.

This week, as it happens, we also met our sponsored child of a couple of years. I was in virtual shock and totally unprepared as the realisation began to dawn on me the very tangible difference we are making to this one young life. We met Jacob’s family. He’s the youngest of 5. (Read, nothing left.) We met his siblings and mother. And then we went to the local zoo for the day. Jacob is a quiet 12 yr old, 2 yrs behind in his schooling because of missed time, but now on track and loves football with a passion. I will not forget that day for a long time.

BTW, we had our first taste of fried ants. Apart from feeling of little legs stuck in your throat and the knowledge of what we were eating …they were tasty! Put your orders in! 

 

Operationuganda.com

Tanzania, Rwanda and now safely into Uganda

Oh the delays in getting internet access. And even when we get stationed in a big city, we have to write off line and look for somewhere to plug in. Sounds simple … it isn’t!

Mum has just returned to Wales after a two week break. It was with some relief that we managed to hook up at Uganda’s international airport, both ways without having to negotiate landslides, a broken trailer hitch or the riots which erupted last night and government tanks. Today we are hemmed in at Russell and Jenny’s, the amazing Aussies who run Operation Uganda (based at Jordan House) – and where we plan to spend our next few weeks. We are holding on to see if the ‘increasing crowds’ calm down without incident. Although we nipped out today to get fuel as the word on the ground is of impending fuel shortages. Never a dull moment!

 

feb - tanzania

It happened. The freezer arrived. Yes, I was in shock too. Just lots of extra money and time spent.  So, we're one step closer to GnT with ice – oh luxury!! So we left Malawi with just hours to spare before our 30-day visas expired. Not before discovering Mark and Mia at Sanguilo Sanctuary, a beautiful secluded cove on the northern side of lake Malawi.  I wish we'd had some time to stay there.

Malawian are gentle. Tanzanian are also peaceful but everyone you see has a hoe in hand and there seems to be more boldness. And Tanzanians always greet us in Swahili, inspiring some language learning on our part! Several days into Tanzania, it was with heart in mouth that we heard the grating of our heavy trailer dragging on the ground behind the car. We found that the tow hitch and bumper had ripped off. The roads were atrocious even though we'd only been doing 20km/hr. Out of nowhere appeared around 20 men. One lorry driver was particularly helpful through his limited English and fixed us up with his welder friend in the next village (1hr away) and was generally optimistic and lovely. So the boys and I stayed with the trailer. After several hours an old man came by asking us if we were hungry. I agreed a price and off he went only to return 10min later with a chicken under his arm, a live chicken! Maybe Mcdonalds has its place after all!  Fortunately at that time, Mike and Lynn came by and rescued us, hitched us up, took us to Ajay and generously invited us back to their 3,500ft high ranch (read: cold) along with their other 20 guests. So a day later we followed, meeting up with 4 lovely American missionary families where we've stayed for a few nights. How did we end up meeting such a good bunch of people?! These guys are cool – they have a real practical input into the community - introducing trade such as bee keeping, sunflowers, supporting exiting small businesses. Lynn saves premature babies and then returns them to the orphanage. The boys have loved the time here. Yesterday we watched Superbowl all morning, played volleyball etc under the pine trees, the boys went hunting, we mums went for a walk – Ajay and I earned our keep by cooking curries for a few evening meals. Today – it's back to reality and for our part we embark on the next part of our journey. Another sad goodbye. We head north along Lake Tangikya. I'm somewhat apprehensive. The roads there are more remote than anywhere we've hit and it's get rainy. We know the route is passable as we met people who've recently done it. But I hear the villages are deserted. So next stop will be Rwanda. Oh - Ewan MacGreggor from Long Way Down stopped both at Sanguilo and here. And I thought we were exploring new ground. Evidently not!

Keep in touch lovely people. xxx

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Malawi – ‘The Warm Heart of Africa’

We think Malawi deserves this title! It is without the 'Big Five' but it is with lovely gentle people, beautiful weather verging on cold at night, lush green landscape, a huge lake with diving and snorkeling and the ever-present craft markets. However, this woodcraft market remains typically African in it's energy and potentially aggressive edge. We stayed for several hours watching these talented guys carve keyrings out of ebony for us. They were really accommodating in allowing the kids to haggle with them, and getting filmed at the same time.

It was so cute seeing Portia get the pot she wanted for herself and her Nana at the price she wanted, and converting the money on her fingers, from HK dollars to Malawian kwachas! Now that was a good alternative lesson. Eden was also very pleased with his purchase of a wicked bow and 6 arrows which he worked hard for!

We are stationed in Lilongwe, Malawi's small capital city – at a shaded camp site called Mabuya. We want to be moving up, but on the bright side it's been delicious to be in one place with hot showers and a proper roof over our head if it rains. We've been able to focus on academic work for 3 or 4 hours daily. From here up, supermarkets dissipate and I guess internet access becomes more spasmodic. We are taking a route up past Lake Tangikya and into Rwanda and then Uganda where we're meeting my mum at the end of February.

Our freezer was not working well. Unfortunately our new freezer that we got checked in at Cape Town, and paid for … got un-checked in at the stop-over in Johannesburg – and we are having difficulties in tracing it and obtaining it since them. SAA have been less than helpful, we're not very pleased. First world prices… But hey, we're in Africa…

Keep in touch! Chat soon, Rosanna

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Quick Update

Here we are in Malawi … the rainy season. And rainy it is, at the moment. I'm sitting under a tin roof, an 'outside' seating area. The first thing which hits you, apart from the spray jumping up from 2 or 3m away, is the noise. It is so loud you can't converse. So a convenient time to write an entry. Asher is looking after Portia who is finding the thunder rather alarming. They're playing board games inside. Portia has snuggled up to a pet dog. Eden has gone with Ajay. They have spent the morning at the airport trying to secure a flight for our new freezer/fridge which should have arrived one week ago from Cape Town but got detained in Johannesburg.

Last week, we stayed at the house of a most lovely family who are moving back to UK in a few months time. This family also home school their 3 kids and it was an excellent example and helpful to all of us to see how diligent they are. Again, we've met some quality people – but I'm now impatient to get back into our journey again. Although how we are going to dodge the rain outpours, I'm not so sure.  Wet clothes all over the place is no fun when multiplied by 5!

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Have a Peaceful and Predictable 2010!

Hey Robin. Thank you for the birthday wishes. BTW, did you mean every year you aspire to be as mature as me? (Rather than as old as me.)

But you don’t feel like you ever get there. Now that makes more sense!!

Although to state the obvious, we are doing our best to give you every opportunity to catch up!!

Let me fill you in.

But first … the privilege of doing this – taking a year out with your family. I love it.

I’m relieved to say that we’ve all changed. This is getting easier by the day. The boys in particular have changed. Their work attitude has improved 100%, they contribute more positively, travel better and don’t complain. Everything is much smoother. And there is less pressure on Ajay. We’ve stayed ‘off-road’ several times, and have stayed at small villages with no electricity and round mud huts several times. And all the way to the other end of the scale too. 100 pounds for camping per night…!

I still am not sure if I would actually recommend a trip like this … between you, me and the gate post. We seem to sail perilously close to the wind maybe a little too often, which I don’t always enjoy at the time.

Today Ajay took Portia and Eden just 200m off the lip of the Victoria Falls, along the edge of the weir. I couldn’t look, let alone film it! Although, as Ajay will be quick to tell you, it wasn’t that dangerous.

Our new car is going nicely, on the whole. We came up through Botswana over Christmas.

I feel as if we have one ‘drama’ after another. We did some ‘wild’ camping just before Christmas, the first we’d done in Namibia, only to find out our car wouldn’t start the next morning. We were 20 miles walk from the previous village we’d passed. And it was hot, hot. For better or worse the camera crew were with us! So we could jump start the car. Ajay eventually found out we have a 24v starter motor and so couldn’t steal all the charge for the freezer from the 2^nd battery. Then a few days ago the roads were so bumpy. We assume the river crossings effected the breaking system on the trailer, so with all the sand and potholes we had to go through, the weight of the trailer kept bumping into the tail of the car bring the tow bar extension down by an angle of 30 degrees. We limped on to the next major town, a day’s travel. Ajay asked a group of guys, who took us into the local township (all the time assessing how safe this tip was.) There Ajay found help and contacts to fix it!

The first river crossing was in the middle of the Okavango Delta. We were in the middle of nowhere again, relying on the laptop and using Tracks for Africa. It’s amazing how reliable we can navigate with it. (Except the laptop took a break for no known reason. I sympathise entirely and wish I could take a 3 or 4 day break too. Just one!) Now when you cross a river – you are meant to get out and check the depth. We had just finished watching a group of 14 elephants and their babies, and also a rather frisky hippo which I was a tad weary of. When you know there are crocs and hippos in the nearby lakes, what would you do? Anyway, we had a quick look at the depth of this river and preferred side to go. But I tell you, as we went through the river, we had the fright of our lives when the river bed suddenly dropped and the water came up to the windscreen, twice in the same crossing. We’ve got stuck a few times too, but not seriously … yet, although much to the amusements of some locals today! Since then we’ve check the rivers more thoroughly and know that the car can comfortably go through a metre deep … as long as the bottom is solid! There is supposed to be more rain as we go further north and as we get into January. Yet despite all this we are seriously looking at extending the trip to Christmas next year.

Maturity. Now there’s an ambiguous quality!!!

 

Thank You!

With some sense of alarm, we’ve noticed the Christmas season marching stoically on without us – how rude! So in some vague attempt to catch up, (at least that’s a familiar feeling for the time of year!) our thoughts turning towards our many good friends around the world that we’re missing, especially our HK friends, and the special nostalgic HK Christmas. Oh well – we have to console ourselves with the truth that our lives are indeed richer for knowing so many of you, for that gift of sharing your friendships and family times with us. Thank you so much for all the beautiful, ordinary, extraordinary people in our lives.

"Gratitude unlocks the fullness of life. It turns what we have into enough, and more. It turns denial into acceptance, chaos to order, confusion to clarity. It can turn a meal into a feast, a house into a home, a stranger into a friend. Gratitude makes sense of our past, brings peace for today, and creates a vision for tomorrow." Melody Beattie

 

 

Happy Christmas!

Just leaving Windhoek (forever!) on Monday 14th. Rushing up to the Victoria Falls and Lusaka, next stop. It's our one Christmas Party tomorrow with the kids at BNC! We're face painting for our small contribution. (I'm paying Asher Eden and Portia to help me!!!)
By the way - I notice Christmas marching on stoically without us everywhere else in the world! So it's with a tinge of sadness that I remember all our wonderful Hong Kong Christmas times, and our lovely friends there. But happy knowing we are all the richer for having known so many quality people! :-)
And of course - Happy Christmas to my lovely supportive family. You're the best - and our dear Colchester friends. Now I've dug a hole for myself - for all our other family and friends across the world. A love-blanket to you all!
The internet cafe is hassling me ... so I'll stop before the email is wiped out, which wouldn't be the first time.

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Just a quick note!

We seem to have utmost difficulty in leaving – wherever we find ourselves to be! Now we are back in Windhoek, Namibia – again waiting for car paper work, and also the boxes from HK. However – next week we’ll be on the road again – and having to make up some serious time and get some miles behind us. But we’ve just had a wonderful 10 days with a French family who have done a similar trip in reverse. Their kids were 11,10 and 6 – and after some initial language barrier, our kids fitted perfectly together. Unfortunately their English benefited a lot more than our French did. They were just a lovely ordinary family – running their lives in a very similar way to us. The time turned out to be a holiday for both families.

We saw some beautiful sand dunes and had lots of fun climbing up them and sand boarding down them. Well the kids and Ajay – for me it was too fast! And amazing animals in Etosha – but I will include a few picture next time. Now I have to run!

 

 

Quick Note!

We are back in Windhoek after spending a fabulous 10 days with a lovely French family (11, 10 and 6 yr old kids) who have done the same journey, but from top to bottom. They will go onto South America. It was a great break for all of us - and gave me faith again in what's achievable! We are now back in Windhoek, awaiting paper work for the car - and trying hard to release the boxes sent from Relocasia with all the donated goods in. Not as easy as it may sound! Film crew joining us towards the end of this week again as we head up on the journey. We need to get some serious number of miles behind us to get back onto schedule. Finally, I hear myself say! The sand dunes and Etosha nature reserve were beautiful - but I'll try and enclose a few pictures in a day or two.
The time at the internet cafe is closing down on me - I couldn't get to send my lovely list of emails. Watch your in-box in the next day or two - I'll have to get my technological husband on the job, along with every other department that he has to handle!

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Heading out of Windhoek

After three weeks of luxury in Windoek in the sanctuary of four walls, garden (with grass!), a pool and internet access ... we're now ready to venture out again. We are going back to the Sessrim, the sand dunes that we were originally hoping to see before our trip - crashed! And then to Etosha, through the Caprivi Strip, the Victoria Falls and onto Zambia. Our time with MaryBeth and the BNC kids was wonderful. It has been the best tonic. We felt so totally privilegded. One to be working with MaryBeth, to my way of thinking - she is my modern-day Mother Thereasa - but that doesn't encompass the slightly radical, zani ..... struggling for an appropriate word here, attidude she has! Just a whole lot of fun to be around - and thought provoking in her lifestyle approach. I think she'll be a family table name for quite sometime to come. And the other privilegde was our kids, in fact all five of us - enjoying the time of a vibrant energized community and just been along side some amazing survivors in life. Oh, how cool!! Here's a radical idea. Come and visit Namibia. It really is a country which has a lot of beauty to offer. And bring your family, or friends - and spend two or three of those weeks just ... getting stuck in! You would not regret it!

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Heading out of Windhoek

After three weeks of luxury in Windoek in the sanctuary of four walls, garden (with grass!), a pool and internet access ... we're now ready to venture out again. We are going back to the Sessrim, the sand dunes that we were originally hoping to see before our trip - crashed! And then to Etosha, through the Caprivi Strip, the Victoria Falls and onto Zambia. Our time with MaryBeth and the BNC kids was wonderful. It has been the best tonic. We felt so totally privilegded. One to be working with MaryBeth, to my way of thinking - she is my modern-day Mother Thereasa - but that doesn't encompass the slightly radical, zani ..... struggling for an appropriate word here, attidude she has! Just a whole lot of fun to be around - and thought provoking in her lifestyle approach. I think she'll be a family table name for quite sometime to come. And the other privilegde was our kids, in fact all five of us - enjoying the time of a vibrant energized community and just been along side some amazing survivors in life. Oh, how cool!! Here's a radical idea. Come and visit Namibia. It really is a country which has a lot of beauty to offer. And bring your family, or friends - and spend two or three of those weeks just ... getting stuck in! You would not regret it!

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hi there brother - finally a follower, pleased to have you on board. Though maybe safer here than there!
xxx

part IV

Part III

part II

A picture tells a thousand words. Part I

Car Roll

 

Last Sunday (25^th?) we had a car accident and rolled the car 180 degrees. The roof tent must have cushioned the fall. All five of us are all fine – Ajay has some internal bruising. I think he partially dislocated his shoulder, but pushed it back. Nothing broken in the car or otherwise – not even the bottles of wine. On the other hand, 6 of the 8 windows are smashed, and unless we want a permanent convertible, the car is a write-off and our bank account also more than dented, along with our pride! Especially as it was well documented by you know who!

 

We were driving too fast on a gravel road, and could not take the corner. We were trying to get early morning Soussoussvlei sand dunes. My first reaction was relief – and then anger and grief mixed up and jostling for position. The boys on the other hand were very cheerful and frankly delighted to see some real action at last.

 

Now I feel more circumspect.

 

We have just bought a car that is even better. It's hard to know how to pray this through. We believed that God truly blessed us with the first car. It feels weird. Within a week, we rolled a car, crawled out alive, and bought a new one. As if nothing ever happened. Ajay is incommunicado at the moment, at Hammerstien Cheetah Farm, transfering bits from one car to the other. It's the same model, one year newer, and generally smarter. I don't think the carpets have been used. Bit of a shame really to turn it into a family car/home! And silver, which is a lot more practical than dark blue. (Plus dvd player!)  To be honest, if we had thoroughly researched a place to break down, I don't think we'd have found better. Hammerstien Cheetah Farm – thank you so much!!! And beautiful leapords and cheetahs up close too.

 

The camping is hard work. The kids are finding it hard. I am concerned about the heat as we go further up.

 

But Namibia is great. We came to Windhoek faster than we intended and met the larger-than-life MaryBeth who is an inspirational lady, and refers to herself as a freelance-do-gooder. She has no salaray yet almost single handedly looks after 200-300 township kids up until 16-18 years. She has a daily after school club from 2-5pm where they eat a bowl of soup and bread, have free time, she tries to work on their basic eduacation skills, some of the older boys she ennables them to have weekly tennis lessons, Saturdays are taken up with football tournament which lasts the whole day, every other Sunday she has arranged for the kids to use the local swimming pool – and basically builds their sefl-esteem in every way she knows how. And no income. Today we listened to Salomes' choir, full of African harmonies and life. Salome, the musical director is 12.

 

So here we are based for a short time, particuarly while Ajay pushes maths into the Yr 7 kids so that they can move up into High School. My number is 00264 (Namibia) 814811875 if you want to call. Our children are known as 'the little volunteers' and have got stuck right in!

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